Let’s Go Shooting
After scouting, you can safely go on a photo hunt. Be sure to bring water and something high in calories. There isn’t actually that much time for shooting (it depends on the length of daylight hours, of course), so you won’t have time for long breaks for lunch in a cafe, and if you’re shooting in the forest, there won’t be any cafes there. Quick snacks are our everything.
Once you’ve reached your destination, start shooting! For objects, the process is no different from home scanning. So, once again, I recommend reading my previous article to learn more about this. For surface materials, find the area you like and mark it with two tape measures vertically and horizontally (the length of the tape measures depends on the required size of the material).
Also, place a color checker next to the edge of the material so that it is included in the final photos. Shooting small buildings and structures is no different from shooting objects, except for the much larger number of photos and shooting without a flash. It would be great if you are lucky with cloudy weather or if the part of the facade you need is in the shade.
For multi-story buildings or natural rocks, only drone photography is used. I haven’t had this kind of experience yet, but in fact, it’s no different from regular photography. The rules are the same, it’s just much more difficult to shoot from a drone, and the subject is thousands of times larger than a regular apple.
When photographing any objects, facades, or materials, try to shoot them in the shade, even if the weather outside is clear. Objects can be moved into the shade of a building or tree, facades will definitely be in the shade at certain times of the day, and it is best to shoot materials in the morning or evening.
When using a flash, you don’t need a lot of street light, just enough to see what you are shooting. The more natural light falls on the material or object, the more light and shadow will appear on it, and the color will change, which is naturally bad, because we need to get fully cross-polarized photos.
During my last scan, which I did in my grandmother’s garden, I had to gather all the objects in the greenhouse to protect myself and the objects from the snow and cold. This allowed me to shoot even in winter, although I do not recommend shooting in such conditions.
The equipment is not designed for severe frosts. In my case, it was minus one degree Celsius. Starting at around minus five, camera and other equipment manufacturers no longer recommend shooting, unless your camera is not a hiking camera, which has a much higher operating temperature than consumer cameras.
